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Thread: Hydraulic cement - how do I put it around the pipe

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    Question Hydraulic cement - how do I put it around the pipe

    that will be going through the block walls of my filter system? It's a tight fit for the pipes but they fit through fine. Should I put some along the inside of the block beside where the pipe will go, or should I just patch around the outside of the hole with it?
    Question #2 - I'm going to use some Drylock or Quickrete concrete repair for a crack in the old pond wall which is concrete. Which is better?? I have both. Would this work for around the pipes coming through the walls? I'm just not sure what to do to be effective and I certainly don't want to have to go back and patch it when I'm up and running (whenever that'll be)
    Thanks for any suggestions!


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    Quote Originally Posted by sworley View Post
    that will be going through the block walls of my filter system? It's a tight fit for the pipes but they fit through fine. Should I put some along the inside of the block beside where the pipe will go, or should I just patch around the outside of the hole with it?
    Question #2 - I'm going to use some Drylock or Quickrete concrete repair for a crack in the old pond wall which is concrete. Which is better?? I have both. Would this work for around the pipes coming through the walls? I'm just not sure what to do to be effective and I certainly don't want to have to go back and patch it when I'm up and running (whenever that'll be)
    Thanks for any suggestions!
    I used a mortar bag to squeeze it into the void around the pipe. Pack it in as tight as you can.

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    Quote Originally Posted by birdman View Post
    I used a mortar bag to squeeze it into the void around the pipe. Pack it in as tight as you can.
    Sworley,

    Here is a picture that shows what Steve is talking about. It's basically a cake frosting bag, but of a much more heavy duty material.



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    BTW, the motor bags are available at HD


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    Thank you, gentlemen! I'll look for a mortar bag today! I'm hoping to get more plumbing work done and also to finish painting the inside of the filter area.

    I have one more question - my prefilter in my tote SC is fairly heavy even empty so I know it'll weigh a little more when I put media into it. I'm afraid if I glue it in as I need to that it will pull the bulkhead out of the wall - will the pressure of the water keep it from doing that or do I need to put some sort of support underneath it, like a cinder block?


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    You shouldn't need to glue it on the inside of the SC... and the water made mine kind of
    buoyant... I think it was Lee K. that supported his with a T off the bottom of the SC that
    seemed to work pretty good too... but he was using 55g barrels as MS's.

    Name:  T support.jpg
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Size:  8.9 KB

    If your PF are the flower pot kind... don't forget some holes in the bottom to help equalize
    the water when filling and emptying the SC.

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    Hydraulic cement requires a little experience. It set very fast. I only mix in a small bucket small amounts at a time. Otherwise you'll find it hardens before you can use......................Its a great product ones you learn the speed of execution....
    Jorge

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    Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
    You shouldn't need to glue it on the inside of the SC... and the water made mine kind of
    buoyant... I think it was Lee K. that supported his with a T off the bottom of the SC that
    seemed to work pretty good too... but he was using 55g barrels as MS's.

    Name:  T support.jpg
Views: 624
Size:  8.9 KB

    If your PF are the flower pot kind... don't forget some holes in the bottom to help equalize
    the water when filling and emptying the SC.
    Great idea! My problem is I've already glued the 90 to the bottom of it but figure I could put some sort of lightweight stand like a milk crate with the side taken out under it. That way the water could still flow underneath it. I should have asked first and glued later!


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    Quote Originally Posted by andres58 View Post
    Hydraulic cement requires a little experience. It set very fast. I only mix in a small bucket small amounts at a time. Otherwise you'll find it hardens before you can use......................Its a great product ones you learn the speed of execution....
    That's great to know, Jorge - thanks! I probably would have mixed too much at once. I found a mortar bag - actually called a grout bag at Lowes. It's heavy duty material so should last a while. I have several places to use the hydraulic cement including around the pipes in my waterfall wells. I have 2 other pipes going through concrete which will be sealed on both sides. How fast does it set up? I'll see what it says on the bucket, if anything.


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    Quote Originally Posted by sworley View Post
    Great idea! My problem is I've already glued the 90 to the bottom of it but figure I could put some sort of lightweight stand like a milk crate with the side taken out under it. That way the water could still flow underneath it. I should have asked first and glued later!
    I glue the 90 to the horizontal pipe going out, but never glue the vertical pipe from the prefilter down into the 90. I have used rope from the prefilter to the top of the tank to hold the prefilter up. Kind of crude but worked like a champ.

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    Quote Originally Posted by birdman View Post
    I glue the 90 to the horizontal pipe going out, but never glue the vertical pipe from the prefilter down into the 90. I have used rope from the prefilter to the top of the tank to hold the prefilter up. Kind of crude but worked like a champ.
    Good idea, Steve - problem is, I've already glued everything, so I've cut the pipe going out leaving enough room to fit a T on it so that way I'll have some support the way Steve(ICU2) showed above. That's a great idea, too, and I think it should be easy to do.


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    Jorge is right, that stuff will get hard within a matter of a couple minutes. The directions say mixing with cold water slows down the flash point. I mixed little amounts at a time in a small paint tray and used a 1 inch putty knife to push it in the cracks. Once it started to firm up, I added a little bit more water and it softened back up. I didn't think of using a grout bag, that's a good idea.

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    Thanks, Shawn - I think the grout bag might help to keep it moist and pliable longer since it won't be directly exposed to air until it's where it's suppose to go.


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    I am confused. Hydraulic cement is a cement that reacts with water, which includes many different cements, but excludes epoxies, and similar. If we are talking the plug products, those are designed to be pushed into a crack with water coming through and react fast enough to plug the leak. If we are talking Portland cement, it is usually used with some type of filler, like sand for mortar or grout, or sand and stone for concrete. Portland cement in any of its forms takes upwards of an hour without retarders to become unworkable, if it is being mixed periodically.


    For the patching you are trying to do, I don't see the use of a plug product as being needed or even desired, do to the rapid set characteristics. Many of the grouts are too fluid to use, though the water addition could be held back to keep the product stiff. Any of the mortars would work fine to fill the space.
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    Thanks, Richard! Do you think if I mix a little bit at a time and use it fast, the hydraulic cement will work? I have it already and want to make sure the pipes are sealed and waterproofed as they need to be. Wouldn't regular mortar need to be painted to actually seal?


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    I haven't worked enough with the plug type products to know all the ins and outs. First, if it is a plug type product, it will be marketed with the name XXX Plug, or all of them I know are. The are designed to set fast and all hydraulic cements continue to gain strength and watertightness by utilizing water over a period of time in what is called hydration. Hydration requires moisture and favorable temperatures to continue. since the plug type products are designed to be put into a leaking crack or hole, I assume (I know, 3 words) it uses the water available to the side the leak is coming from to provide additional water for the hydration reaction, and not having that moisture present it may have excessive shrinkage and not seal at all. I just don't know. Use it and if it shrinks causing a weeping leak, use a little bentonite in the pond and it will find its way into those small leaks and seal them.
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    Thanks again - do you think if I spritz some water on it after I have it in place that will help?


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    Absolutely. Keep it moist for as long as possible. Wet towels, soaker hose, fine mist sprinkler are all good, once it has hardened enough that it is hard to the touch.
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    I mix the amount to do one area at a time. I also use rubber gloves and apply hydraulic cement freely around the pipe. It set rather quickly so after it hardens a little I wet the surface a little and smooth it out with the palm of my hand...Its really nice once you get the hang of it. In my pond build I used Hydraulic cement for all pipes and light niches.
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    Thanks, Jorge - the picture looks good! I'll do what you did!


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